Menu
Quick search
CTRL+K
Quick search
CTRL+K
Kenya is a very popular destination in Africa for people from all over the world, due to its pristine presentation of traditional Africa, and tourism destinations like the Maasai Mara game reserve. Many a tourist is dreaming about a Maasai Mara safari on its own, or at least of adding a visit to the Maasai Mara to a safari itinerary when travelling through the East of the African continent.
To be able to enjoy the ultimate safari holiday in this part of the world, travellers should know a little bit more about the destination itself, what they can expect from a visit and factors like accessibility, weather, activities and available accommodation before booking a trip. Of course, it is also always good to receive a few tips from other experienced travellers to heed while visiting a place for the first time.
The Maasai Mara is also the place from where tourist love to watch the Great Wildebeest Migration. This phenomenon definitely secured the reserve fame as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the African continent, and as one of the ten Wonders of the World.
This article aims to give an overview of the Maasai Mara as the ultimate safari destination, as gathered from several sources and experts.
Maasai Mara National Reserve is an area of preserved savannah wilderness in southwestern Kenya, along the Tanzanian border. The reserve is located in primarily open grassland in the Great Rift Valley.
The Maasai Mara, also known as Masai Mara, and by the locals simply as The Mara, is a large national game reserve that is situated in Narok in Kenya and neighbouring the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania.
The game reserve was named after the Maasai people and their description of the place. They were the ancestral inhabitants of the area and had originally migrated to the area from the Nile Basin. They had described the area as “Mara” that means “spotted” in the local Maasai language, because when they looked at it from afar the many short bushy trees that grow there, made the area look as if it was dotted with the trees.
The Maasai Mara is one of the most important and famous wildlife conservation and wilderness areas in Africa, and is world-renowned for its incomparable populations of lion, African leopard, cheetah and African bush elephant.
The Greater Mara ecosystem includes several areas like the Maasai Mara National Reserve, the Mara Triangle, and several Maasai Conservancies, including Koiyaki, Lemek, Ol Chorro Oirowua, Mara North, Olkinyei, Siana, Maji Moto, Naikara, Ol Derkesi, Kerinkani, Oloirien, and Kimintet.
The total area under conservation in the Greater Maasai Mara ecosystem covers the northernmost section of the Mara-Serengeti ecosystem, which covers some 25 000 square kilometres in Tanzania and Kenya. It is confined by the Serengeti Park to the south, the Siria / Oloololo escarpment to the west, and the Maasai pastoral ranches to the north, east and west.
The area was first established as a wildlife sanctuary in 1961, but then the Mara covered only 520 square kilometres of the total area that it currently covers, basically just including the Mara Triangle. In 1961 that area was extended to the east to cover a total of 1 821 square kilometres and at the same time it was converted to a game reserve.
At that time, the Narok County Council (NCC) took over management of the reserve. Later, in 1974, a part of the reserve was given National Reserve status and the remaining area of 159 square kilometres was returned to the local communities. An additional 162 square kilometres were removed from the reserve in 1976, and the park itself was reduced to 1 510 square kilometres in 1984.
The Trans Mara County Council (TMCC) was formed in the western part of the reserve in the year 1994, and at the time control of the reserve was divided between the newly formed council and the existing Narok County Council. In May 2001, management of the Mara Triangle was taken over by the not-for-profit Mara Conservancy.
The Maasai people consists of several communities that are found across the northern, central and southern parts of Kenya and the northern parts of Tanzania. The community sees itself as pastoralists, and as such believes that all of the cattle in the world are theirs. The Maasai tribes heavily rely on land to sustain themselves and their families, as well as their cattle.
Prior to the establishment of the Maasai Mara reserve as a protected area earmarked for the conservation of wildlife and wilderness, the Maasai people were forced to move out of their native lands.
Until today tradition is still playing a major role in the lives of the modern day Maasai people. They are known for their tall, proud stature, beautifully patterned shukas and beadwork.
Shuka cloth worn by the Maasai people is affectionately known as “African blankets” and is often red with black stripes. It is popular in East Africa and known to be very durable, strong, and thick, effectively protecting the Maasai from the harsh weather and terrain of the savannah.
Beads as such weren’t originally used. Initially, Maasai women made their traditional ornaments by using dried grass, sticks, clay, seeds, and shells as materials but over time, they began using attractive beads that they obtained from other communities through trade. These were made of plastic and glass.
The western border of the Maasai Mara is the Esoit (Siria) escarpment of the East African Rift, which is a system of rifts of about 5 600 km long, stretching from the Red Sea in Ethiopia through Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi down into Mozambique. Most of the region’s wildlife is concentrated here, as the swampy ground gives fairly good access to water and tourist disruption is minimal.
The eastern border of the reserve lies about 224 km from Nairobi, making this region the most visited by tourists.
The terrain of the Maasai Mara mainly consists of open grassland with some seasonal rivulets. In the south-eastern part of the region one finds clusters of the distinctive acacia tree. The major rivers draining the reserve are the Sand, Talek River and Mara Rivers. Most drainage lines are fringed by shrubs and trees, the same kind which also covers most hillslopes and hilltops.
Elevation of the area differs between 1 500 metres and 2 180 metres above sea level.
Rainfall in this kind of ecosystem increases noticeably along a southeast–northwest gradient, are biannual, with two distinct rainy seasons during the year. These rainy seasons are experienced from November through May, with peak rainfall in December and January and April and May. Dry season is experienced from June through to November.
Local farmers like to refer to the rainy seasons as the ‘long rains’ which falls for approximately six to eight weeks in April and May and the ‘short rains’ which falls in November and December and lasts approximately for four weeks. Average rainfall are about 83 mm per month and temperatures range from 12 degrees Celsius to about 30 degrees Celsius.
Days often comprises sunny mornings with an amount of cloud build-up in the afternoons. During the rainy season, these clouds would develop into thunderstorms in the afternoon and evenings.
The Maasai Mara is home to abundant wildlife of all kinds, be it antelope, predators, birds and even water inhabitants, all contributing to the popularity of the region as a tourism destination where everybody just loves to safari into the bush to experience this all.
Herds of wildebeest, topi (a subspecies of the common tsessebe found in the savannas, semi-deserts, and floodplains of sub-Saharan Africa), zebra, and Thomson’s gazelle are resident in the reserve and also migrate into and occupy the Mara reserve, from the Serengeti plains to the south and Loita Plains in the pastoral ranches to the north-east. This usually happens between July and October or a little later.
All the members of the so-called “Big Five”, which include lion, leopard, elephant, Cape buffalo, black and white rhinos, are found in the area all year round.
The plains between the Mara River and the Esoit Siria Escarpment are probably the best area for game viewing, in particular for lion and cheetah and Hyenas, cheetahs, jackals, servals and bat-eared foxes can also be found in the reserve.
The park is home to hundreds of species of birds, of which more than 470 species have already been identified. Many of them are migrants, with almost 60 species of raptors noticed here.
Birds like vultures, marabou storks, secretary birds, hornbills, long-crested eagles, ostriches, crowned cranes, African pygmy-falcons and the lilac-breasted roller call this area home, even though it might only be for a part of the year. The lilac-breasted roller is the national bird of Kenya.
There are a lot of antelopes, including Grant’s gazelles, impalas, duikers and Coke’s hartebeests, as well as the distinctive Masai giraffe. The large roan antelope, rarely present elsewhere in Kenya, can also be found in the reserve. Hippopotami and crocodiles are found in the Mara and Talek rivers.
Millions of wildebeest are however the dominant inhabitants of the Maasai Mara and around July of each year, these animals migrate north from the Serengeti plains in search of fresh pasture, to return to the south around October. This is called the Great Migration and is one of the most impressive natural events worldwide.
It involves more than 1 300 000 blue wildebeest, about 500 000 Thomson’s gazelles, more than 97 000 Topi, 18 000 common elands, and 200 000 Grant’s zebras.
The Maasai Mara is one of the most famous safari destinations in Africa. Organised game drives are probably the most popular activity in the Maasai Mara, but a number of other activities, including hot air ballooning, nature walks, photographic safaris and cultural experiences are also gaining popularity among visitors from all over the world.
One can join one of several travel expeditions to explore the northern-most limits of the Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem in search of prides of lion, cheetahs and leopards, many of it made famous by BBC’s popular Big Cat Diaries and Disney’s African Cats series. At the same time, one would be entertained by the sight of herds of elephants, plains game, birds, ancient acacias and at the end of each day wowed by spectacular sunsets.
These are all key ingredients of a typical Mara experience and should in a minor or major way find its way into any carefully crafted itinerary.
The Sentinel Mara Camp, perched on the high banks of the Mara River in a cool riverine forest, is often used as base because it is filled with bird song and butterflies while hippos, crocodiles, buffaloes and plains game frequently visits the area and can be seen from the camp.
The Musiara Marsh and Paradise Plains lie beyond the Sentinel Mara Camp and both offer terrific game viewing. This was the playground of BBC’s Big Cat Diaries and Disney’s African Cats series and the area is renowned for its excellent cat sightings with leopards, cheetahs and lions in abundance.
The big cats may draw the most attention, but visitors should not forget to look out for other exciting creatures like the spotted aardwolf, serval, hyena, side-striped and golden jackal, elephants, buffaloes, and giraffes or even the almost extinct black rhino.
There are a lot of activities offered to tourists to the area. Except game viewing, they can so some camping, go on night game drives, visit some of the traditional Masai cultural villages, go hot-air ballooning, or enjoy bush breakfasts, dinners or lunches.
Since many rare and exotic birds are endemic to area, bird watching tours are also becoming quite popular.
Cultural tours to the cultural villages to get acquainted with the Maasai way of traditional living may be a very interesting variation on a game-filled holiday.
Game drives often also include local village visits, where visitors can see the locals busy with their normal daily activities. Other activities include guided walking safaris, night drives and star gazing to experience the African skies where no light pollution interferes with the nocturnal wonder up in the air.
Bush dining, picnics and sundowners in the bush are all popular and exhilarating ways to end a day and parents with smaller children may find that some venues care enough about the younger ones too, to offer them some bush-related activities.
But the highlight, and probably the reason why anyone would visit, usually remains the Great Wildebeest Migration.
The Great Wildebeest Migration can be described as one of the last mass terrestrial wildlife movements left on the planet. It is most probably the chief – or even only – reason why so many travellers undertake an expensive safari to Kenya or Tanzania, or both.
Ticking off a Great Migration Safari remains on the wish list of almost any serious traveller.
The Great Migration is one of nature and tourism’s greatest paradoxes: while the right timing to experience it is absolutely vital, there is no way to accurately predict that very timing, since the animals’ movements depend on many variables.
Everybody knows that the wildebeest (and a dash of zebra and other antelope) will eventually cross the Mara River, but nobody knows or can predicts beforehand exactly when they will. It is also known by most that rain will trigger the wildebeest to start moving onto fresh grazing, but nobody, not even local so-called experts, ever knows exactly when the rain will fall during any year.
That of course does not mean that anything is just left to coincidence and especially travel and tourism agencies that have been in this business for years, plan their offering in a way that it help travellers to be in the best possible place at the best possible time for the best possible experience – and at the best possible price.
This is one of the obvious reasons why potential travellers should rather opt for expert planning advice when considering a Wildebeest Migration safari in the Maasai Mara. There also are other common misconceptions about the migration, making it even more necessary to be guided and assisted by professionals that had done planning for such a trip many times before.
Common Misconceptions About the Wildebeest Migration:
1. The river crossings can be predicted
Every single tour operator or agent wishes that he or she could predict the crossings, but no-one can, not even the wildebeest know when they are going to cross! Not all of them also act in the same manner – some just arrive at the water and swim through immediately, while others will arrive and first spend a few days hanging around and grazing before they attempt to cross.
Others even arrive at the water, consider crossing and eventually turn back to where they came from! This is of course why it would be a pity if you only have one or two days set aside to watch this phenomenon, but you would be fortunate if you can allocate as much time as possible for this kind of safari if you want to be lucky enough to see a river crossing.
2. The migration only happens between July and October
Most people are under the impression that the Wildebeest Migration always and only takes place between the months of July and October. This is not true, since it actually is a year-round phenomenon, with a variety of equally exciting actions that can all occur at different times of the year, and in turn differ from year to year.
It is true however that the river crossings often coincide with safari’s high season, which is July to October, from there the perception that this is the only time of the year that the wildebeest can be seen on the move.
Lately however, and possibly due to worldwide climate change, the long and short rainy seasons in Kenya and Tanzania no longer seem to be as predictable or regular as they once were. With rain now often coming earlier or later, it also tend to throw even the wildebeest’s whole calendar out of synch.
This just emphasises why it is so important to allow for as much as possible time on a safari of this kind. It is just too risky to spend a lot of money to fly in for one or two nights and think you will be assured of seeing a river crossing before you fly on again to the next destination. This is simply not the way nature – and the wildebeest argue!
So, if they are not at the Mara River, where are all those millions of wildebeest? Following is a general breakdown of more or less where the herds of wildebeest may find themselves during each month of the year. Once again, bear in mind that their entire migration pattern may change, since most of their behaviour is triggered by rain, which can be either on time, early or late.
January behaviour
During the month of January, the wildebeest herds tend to stay in Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, slowly moving back down south from the north-eastern region and into the area of the Southern Serengeti, Lake Ndutu and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It is interesting to note that they do not go into the Ngorongoro Crater itself, the wildebeest seen there are resident herds.
Since the Serengeti is not fenced in, the herds of wildebeest are free to move to any place where they can find enough grazing. Visitors should also remember that all the wildebeest do not stay in one single herd. Although up to two million wildebeest, zebra and antelope in total form the Migration, the animals break themselves up into mega-herds of thousands or smaller groups of hundreds of individuals at a time and move around in their own time.
Until round about March it is also calving season, when lots of young calves will be around. Although a beautiful sight to behold, this also may cause heart breaking sightings for visitors as this is the time when predators pounce and fulfil their purpose in nature.
If you can stomach such predator action though, the Southern Serengeti will be the place to watch it with lions, leopards, brown hyenas and even wild dogs taking advantage of the vulnerability of the many young calves.
February behaviour
During the month of February, the usual good grazing options in the Southern Serengeti, Ndutu and Ngorongoro Conservation Areas, cause the herds to remain in the far south. This is the time for action-packed rutting, with scores of males competing for the right to mate with the many receptive females.
This timing also means that when the fertile females finally reach the Mara, Talek and Grumeti Rivers several months later, most of them are heavily pregnant, making their act even more incredible.
March behaviour
During the month of March, the wildebeest herds are usually still in the south but by now most of the grazing has been munched up, the last of the calves have been born, and the herds are instinctively starting to get together in groups in preparation for the next leg of their journey northwards.
April behaviour
During the month of April, the wildebeest generally are ready to begin their big journey northwards. Many of them may have left already and will at this stage already be in the central and even the western part of the Serengeti.
May behaviour
By the time May arrives, action is normally in full swing and the masses of animals, “organised” in several herds, all on the go. By this time huge groups that may stretch up to 40 kilometres long, can sometimes be seen as the wildebeest and other animals trek up into the central and western parts of the Serengeti.
Water sources they had previously frequented are starting to dry out as the dry season begins to make its appearance and the time has arrived to march towards the Mara River.
June behaviour
If you want to catch the herds of wildebeest during the month of June, you should probably head out to the central and western parts of the Serengeti. The major number of the wildebeest herds should now be in that area and busy getting ready for the toughest part of their journey.
During this time, the weather also should be cooler already, and since it will be much drier with fewer leaves on trees – and fewer bugs too – there will be ample photographic opportunities. Just remember that while more dust is a welcome prop to beautiful sunsets, you should prep your camera equipment accordingly to protect it from the dust.
July behaviour
By the month of July most of the herds should have reached the western region of the Serengeti and probably are already considering whether the brown waters of the rivers they have to cross, would be safe. At the same time their enemies, the huge and hungry Nile crocodiles, will however also be busy preparing for their seasonal meaty feast!
As previously mentioned, it is impossible to predict when they will actually cross, but it usually happens any time between May and September. If you are set to see at least something of this spectacular event, it would be wise to book your Wildebeest Migration safari long in advance – even up to a year before – so that you are assured to get accommodation at a lodge on or as close to the river as possible.
This will make it easier and quicker to travel to the different lookout points. Although the wildebeest can cross in several places, they do have historical preferred crossing areas and it may be wise to spend as much as possible time at these points in the hope of seeing some action.
August behaviour
During August, the survivors among those that crossed, are celebrating and feasting in the northern Serengeti. Some now begin to cross into the Maasai Mara National Reserve
September behaviour
Many of the larger herds break up into smaller groups, with about half of the animals remaining in the northern Serengeti and the rest settling in the Maasai Mara. Now and here one starts to realise that the whole Serengeti-Mara ecosystem is really one eco-system that has been artificially divided by humans. The herds will be spread out more and more and make the most of all available water and food.
October behaviour
While the Maasai Mara is a smaller reserve as the Serengeti, your best bet is to be in the Maasai Mara now. Just bear in mind that it may be quite crowded at this time of year, due to a lot of visitors with the same idea as you.
The conservancies around the Mara are however much less crowded now, so you can also head there. Not only will you still be able to witness the Migration itself, you will also contribute directly to the welfare of the Maasai communities who have lived there for thousands of years.
November behaviour
In a ‘normal year’ the short rains of November will have begun, which would in turn start to urge the wildebeest to leave the now stripped grasslands of the Maasai Mara again to go back into a rejuvenated Serengeti.
This is of course, providing that the rain comes when expected. If it is late or was early, this timeframe of their behaviour may differ considerably.
For humans this should a good time though, irrespective of the animal behaviour. While November is traditionally very hot, the rain would also be welcomed to cool things down. Early mornings and late afternoons the sun would be at its weakest and it would be great times for game drives.
December behaviour
Rain should have brought fresh grazing which in turn should see the wildebeest gathered in the north-eastern Serengeti, particularly around Lobo, as well as in the southern part of Serengeti.
The cycle of life will begin all over again, with calving, and predators moving in again too.
Now that it has become clearer how the Great Migration works, you will also realise that the best time to go on the ultimate safari to the Maasai Mara will depend entirely on which events you are interested in experiencing.
While both the Serengeti and Maasai Mara’s wide-open landscapes with its abundance of wildlife make them wonderful all year-round safari destinations, the decision to single one experience out for a visit, will be completely up to you. If you do however decide to make a choice, consider the following:
Going on safari in January and February
During January and February, if it had rained, the migration moves onto the Serengeti plains in the south, where the new-born calves often fall prey to predators. This is feasting time for cheetahs and lions, also hyenas who pick up what remains of the cats’ kills, so you should consider being in the Ndutu area in favourite establishments like Olakira and the Ndutu Safari Lodge.
Going on safari during March and April
March and April is when the migration begins to move through the central Serengeti towards the western part to where the new grasses and this is a beautiful time to travel too. Lots of flowers cover the central Serengeti and there are not too many people around. Albeit being in the rainy season, roads might be muddy so staying in the Ndutu or Seronera areas will accommodate you in the right place for the migration.
Going on safari in May and June
As the dry season is now approaching, May and June will still see the migrating herds moving, now towards the Grumeti River where the crocodiles wait for their opportunity of easy meals. Make sure that you can get near the Grumeti River or stay at Seronera and the western Serengeti area.
Going on safari in July
July is a very exciting month for a great migration experience, as the herds move further into the northern Serengeti and towards the Mara River. Now you should be in the Northern Serengeti where you can witness them battling their way through the waters while trying to avoid the crocodiles. Being situated on the Mara River in the remote northern Serengeti would be first prize.
Going on safari in August and September
After the excitement of the river crossings, the migrating herds settle in the Maasai Mara for a while, so this is where you should be too. You will almost be guaranteed lots of action from any camp with access to the crossing points on the river.
Going on safari in October
As the rain clouds start to build up again, the wildebeest anticipating the rains may begin their journey south through the Maasai Mara and back down into the Serengeti National Park. Your ideal base during this time would be in the south-eastern area of the Maasai Mara or in the north-eastern Serengeti.
Going on safari in November
When the short rains begin in November, the migration moves south towards the Loliondo area of the Serengeti, a part of the ecosystem on land owned by the Maasai. Staying at Migration Camp or Piyaya will have you in exactly the right place for witnessing this move. A stay here will give you access to the migration as well as beautiful scenery.
Going on safari in December
As December arrives, the migrating herds settle on the grass plains in the Southern Serengeti and you will be able to see thousands of wildebeest and zebra gathering on the southern plains. Once again, being based at Olakira or Ndutu Safari Lodge will put you in the best place to see the vast herds.
There are a number of lodges and tented camps catering for tourists inside or bordering the Maasai Mara Game Reserve and within the various separate Conservancies that border the main reserve.
While people are restricted to either Kenya or Tanzania, the main reserve is unfenced along the border with Serengeti (which is in Tanzania), giving totally free movement to all the wildlife throughout the ecosystem.
Despite the fact that a third of the whole Maasai Mara is in the western part of the larger reserve, The Mara Triangle has only two permanent lodges within its boundaries, namely the Mara Serena Lodge and Little Governors Camp and has well maintained gravel roads. There are lots of camps and lodges on the Narok side.
Local rangers regularly patrol the area to curb poaching and ensure excellent game viewing, restricting for example vehicle numbers around animal sightings.
There are several airfields that serve the camps and lodges and several airlines fly scheduled services from Nairobi and elsewhere multiple times a day.
Accommodation for a Great Migration are offered in either permanent lodges or mobile camps, each with its advantages, so choosing one will depend on what is important to you.
While permanent lodges will have modern amenities like plumbed bathrooms with showers and flush toilets, mobile camps may provide only tents with bucket showers due to no running water. Things like Wi-Fi and a constant supply of electricity may also just be found at lodges, while camps often make use of solar power or generators to only supply power to keep necessary equipment going.
Book as soon as you know you want to go, since lodges and camps are small and fill up quickly.
If you travel on a tight budget, choose good-value accommodation for extra time on safari to increases your chances of seeing births, kills or crossings.
Decide what you want to see the most because this will determine your timing and location.
If you seek privacy and exclusive wildlife encounters, choose a lodge in one of the conservancies.
If you want to avoid the crowds, avoid the peak or high safari season between June and October. If you prefer this time, consider the private conservancies adjoining the Maasai Mara which offer exclusivity, luxurious accommodation and excellent game viewing.
The Maasai Mara and Serengeti combine easily with each other and can also form the focal point of a much larger safari itinerary. You can for example combine it with Amboseli and Laikipia, or with the Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire and the Rift Valley Lakes to the Serengeti, even with Uganda, Rwanda or Congo for the world’s best gorilla-trekking experiences.
The bottom line is that the Maasai Mara offers a once in a lifetime opportunity, whichever way you may look at it. This is not only something to tick of a travelling list, but an ultimate experience that will be remembered for the rest of your life.
Copyright © MoAfrika Tours 2024
MoAfrika tours and the Kruger Safari Co. are destination management companies (DMC) and are not entities of the South African National Parks Board (SANparks).